Visiting Paris - my favorites

Paris, in the eyes of a devotee: Tales of my beloved corners

Having had the privilege of living in Paris for five years, I’ve come to know the city not just as a global capital of culture, art, history and food but as a place of daily beauty (and anoyingness). Yes, Paris is very famous but beyond the iconic landmarks, the city reveals itself in layers, through neighbourhoods with distinct personalities, gardens, cafés, and museums that reward repeat visits.

I’ll try to give you a complete tour but I’ll mostly ramble about my favorite places.

Timeless Icons

The Louvre

It’s a classic and nearly everyone will tell you to go, but I assure you, it’s worth every visit. I’ve been to the Louvre around 50 times and I’d still want to go if you’d ask me to. In 2023, I attended evening art history courses there and over the other years up to today I explored countless temporary exhibitions, and wandered through its vast collections, one wing at a time (and sometimes the same wing multiple times in a row). Each visit offered something new, and not once did it lose its magic. The Louvre remains, without exception, a place of endless discovery and inspiration.

It is quite easy to get lost and I had to attempt several times before understanding where which section was.

Tap to open the map of the Louvre

One of my personal favorites within the museum is the Northern European Paintings from 1400 to 1650, located in the Richelieu wing, on Level 2. This section offers a glimpse into the refined detail, symbolism, and the intensity of Flemish and Dutch masters. The atmosphere there is often more serene than in other parts of the museum, to me it is an ideal setting for slow, contemplative viewing (I’ve once spent 7 hours on that floor - no joking). Oh and there is rarely cell service (it’s pure bliss).

Some of my favorite paintings in the Louvre

And of course, no visit feels complete without returning to the French paintings, particularly the breathtaking Galerie Médicis - which is altogether one of the most impressive rooms in the Louvre. It houses a series of large paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, one of the greatest Baroque painters. These works tell the story of the life of Marie de' Medici, the queen of France and widow of King Henri IV.

For a bit of context, those were commissioned by the queen herself in the 1620s, the series includes 24 monumental canvases. Rubens blended historical events with mythological elements, portraying Marie de' Medici not just as a political figure, but sometimes like a goddess (I mean same, I’d do that too to be honest). All in one you enter a room with a grand, theatrical narrative that celebrates her life, power, and legacy and all that in really really magnificent paintings.

I can’t help but also stop on the part where the statues are (cours Marly and Puget), where the lights are shining right down on you through glass ceilings and give you a place where to relax and get your feet ok again. It is bathed in brightness and, most of the time, wonderfully peaceful

Petit Palais - Musée des Beaux-Arts

That is so often a place overlooked because it is overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, but the Petit Palais is one of Paris’s most elegant and underrated treasures.

It was built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, and is a Beaux-Arts masterpiece. Nowadays it houses the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris and most often has wonderful exhibitions and always my favorites. Its permanent collection is free to visit and offers a journey through classical and modern art from Renaissance paintings to 19th-century masterpieces by Courbet, Delacroix, and the Impressionists.

  • Some of my favorite temporary exhibitions I’ve visited at the Petit Palais:

    • Worth: Inventing Haute Couture

    • The Golden Age of Danish Painting (1801–1864)

    • Albert Edelfelt (1854–1905): Lights of Finland

    • Jewelry Drawings: The Secrets of Creation

    • Théodore Rousseau: The Voice of the Forest

Beyond the artworks, the architecture itself is reason enough to visit: grand staircases, gilded interiors, painting on the ceilings (which are so impressive I sometimes want to cry by looking at them), and a central garden.

Musée Carnavalet

If Paris had a diary, this museum would be it. Nestled right in the Marais, Carnavalet tells the city’s story and gets you through hundreds of years of culture, history and paintings, objects, book taking you right into the time. From medieval Paris to the Revolution and beyond, you learn a lot about Paris itself.

The building that hosts this museum is an elegant old mansion that’s basically a character in its own right. Whenever I need a little history with my afternoon wander, this place is my go-to, especially because the surroundings are also a charming place to be (I got my Sunrise on the Reaping copy in the Smith and Son shop right next to it).

There is a whole section dedicated to the French Revolution which is on the 2nd floor. The museum is made so that you don’t have to only read your way through: some information come through as videos, paintings and of course objects. You also have architectural maquettes that give you a whole idea about what Paris looked like.

Le Marais is a neighbourhood that’s quite famous for brunch, good vibes and for the charming cobblestone lanes. It is just as much about culture and style: home to the Picasso Museum, galleries, chic boutiques, and the Jewish quarter around Rue des Rosiers. It is also where sits la Place des Vosges. Definitely worth the detour (if only to walk along the cute shops and beautiful architecture).

 

Musée National de la Marine

Ships, sailors, and salty sea tales: this one’s for the adventurous spirit in me. This museum is located at Trocadero, in the Palais de Chaillot. I highly recommend this one as it is one of the oldest and most significant maritime museums in the world, tracing over 300 years of French naval and maritime history. It is part of a network with sites in Brest, Port-Louis, Rochefort, and Toulon. You’ll see a vast collection ship models, paintings, sculptures, navigational instruments, and artifacts like the ornate stern of Louis XIV’s galley

The Marine Museum may sound all serious and stern, but it’s actually a hidden treasure trove of stories from the high seas. I didn't know a lot about life onboard, stories of the seas and superstition from marine life before visiting this museum and it was super interesting, I didn’t get bored at all and even more I wanted to go back to re-visit. The museum is organised into different “eras” and themes like naval power, shipwrecks, and maritime exploration

Bonus: the intricate ship models are tiny masterpieces that make me want to become a model-builder overnight and bonus it is situated opposite the Eiffel Tower so you can combine it with your visit at the Trocadero.

Musée de l’Orangerie

Housed in a former orangery built in 1852 for Napoleon III, it is renowned for its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, so as you can imagine this one is pure visual poetry. The museum is located in the Jardin des Tuileries, at Place de la Concorde and is right at the bottom of the road leading to l’Arc de Triomphe.

Of course the clou du spectacle, the centerpiece of the museum is the display of those eight large-scale Water Lilies panels by Monet, that he painted between 1914 and 1926.

But the core of the museum’s collection was amassed by Paul Guillaume, an art dealer and later expanded by his widow, Domenica Walter, with contributions from her second husband, Jean Walter. You’ll find plenty of 20th century art, and especially my favorite painter : Pierre-Auguste Renoir and his contemporaries.

There is also a touch of modern flair with works from Cézanne and Matisse, so you get a little bit of everything.

La Conciergerie & Sainte-Chapelle: the royal duo in the heart of Paris

I was talking earlier about the Revolution and speaking of that you want to dive into this side of Paris, La Conciergerie is your go-to. It’s a former royal prison that has hosted a parade of historical figures, it is situated on l’Île de la Cité in Paris. Nowadays it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site (and one of my favorite places to visit right next to another treasure of Paris you absolutely need to see).

It is best known for its role as the place where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution in 1793 and it made me almost uncomfortable to read about the events and be in the very place of the happening, but I was very glad to have gone since the French Revolution is a big part of France’s history (reason why I really wanted to go). you’ll learn a lot about the French Revolution, with recreations of cells, guillotine-related artifacts, and documents from the period, and you’ll meet some of the historical French women who died during the Revolution (Olympe de Gouge, Charlotte Corday, Lucile Desmoulins, etc.)

And right next door, Sainte-Chapelle whisks you away into a world of light and color straight out of a fairy tale (personal tip: listening to Hozier inside is top tier of my core memories here in Paris).

You’ll never recover from the stained glass windows that tell biblical stories with such intensity. It really really is a hymn to spirituality. I love sitting there, looking up, letting the mesmerizing windows. However: I highly recommend going early and reserving your tickets beforehand!!! because that place is always crowded and there is a lot of waiting tourists outside at anytime of the day.


Local Neighborhoods

Le Marais
I love this corner of Paris, because of course you have Place des Vosges with the House of Victor Hugo. It’s also a lovely little haven for an afternoon stroll: window-shopping, book-hunting, sipping a matcha (or coffee), and just soaking it all in. Personal recommandation: sitting on a bench on Place des Vosges to read in the spring or fall time.

Montmartre
The view from above alone is enough to get you huffing and puffing up the hill, it’s worth every step. Montmartre’s charm is unmatched. Very artsy, very charming (very crowded also). Don’t miss out on Sacré Coeur, the Roman-Byzantine-style basilica located at the summit of Montmartre, and being the highest point in Paris. You can also visit the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, a beautiful public park and the famous Moulin Rouge nearby. Personal tip: there is a great Brunch on the terrace of the Moulin Rouge, I’ve been there several times it’s really good.

Rue de Rivoli, Concorde & The Tuileries
My personal favorite corner of the city: the place where my heart, and my habits, align. Between Kitsuné for a matcha break, my beloved bookstores, and of course, the iconic Louvre entrance, this trio makes for a perfect Parisian day (yes its a routine I did so often I can’t even count). You can also sit down in the Tuileries Gardens to relax a bit afterwards, which brings me to my next recommandations : the greener side of Paris.


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The Garden Chapters

While the Jardin du Luxembourg is undoubtedly the most iconic, and rightfully so (its a beautiful garden inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence): its layout, central fountain surrounded by green chairs, and a charming museum that regularly hosts really good temporary exhibitions. One of the particular spots not to miss is the romantic 17th-century fountain called Fontaine Médicis with a long basin, shaded by plane trees, featuring the myth of Acis and Galatea. And just fyi: the garden is managed by the French Senate located right at this place.

I’m also particularly fond of the Parc Monceau, a romantic garden in the 8th arrondissement. Its charm relies on an almost poetic calm that makes it perfect for a reading break (very much Pride and Prejudice vibes ….and for a reason since it has the perfect blend of English-style and French romantic gardens).

I also have a soft spot for Parc Montsouris, nestled in the south of the city with its peaceful lake tho I might be slightly biased though: on one visit, I came across a mother duck leading her ducklings along the path, and I ended up following them around for a good hour, completely enchanted. The parc was part of Napoleon III’s vision to bring green spaces to Paris’s growing population and its name likely derives from the area’s historical name, possibly linked to rodents (hello Rémy) in the old quarries.

Another one I really am fond of, not in Paris itself but easily reached by the RER B, is the Parc de Sceaux: a vast, serene estate with grand formal gardens and wide open spaces. It’s particularly stunning in the spring, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom !! And you’ll maybe have a sense of familiarity because it was designed in the 17th century by André Le Nôtre, the renowned landscape architect behind the gardens of Versailles.


In Good Spirits ;)

No more Café de Flore or Angelina: i have tested myself through the cafés of Paris (I mean literally). From the trendiest spots I discovered on TikTok and Instagram to ones I stumbled upon by wandering the streets without a plan, I’ve made it a mission to explore both the celebrated and the hidden. Let me take you through a curated list of my absolute favorite cafés and bookshops in Paris:

Let’s start with a classic. For those on a matcha mission, I have strong opinions!!

(IT DOES NOT TASTE LIKE GRASS stop this nonsense). First and foremost: Café Kitsuné. I’m sorry, this is non-negotiable. I’ve tried many (truly, many), and this one wins every time. I keep going back - my favorite : iced matcha latte with oat milk and maple sirup. Not the same at home, I’ve tried, I’ve been trying and I’ll keep trying.

That said, there’s another place I adore, and though the matcha itself may not dethrone Kitsuné (but still is one of the Top 2 in Paris), the atmosphere more than makes up for it: Kiji. This café is my go-to for slow mornings/after-noons, quiet reading sessions, or working on your laptop and studying. It’s charming, peaceful, and slightly tucked away.

Now, if we’re talking bubble tea, there's one clear, undisputed champion:

Gong Cha at Place d’Italie. No exaggeration when I tell you I went there every single day for a week after a friend introduced me. Perfect texture, perfect sweetness, zero regrets. My order: Iced Brown Sugar (I am indeed a boring basic girl)

Side note: (I did have another favorite, but heartbreakingly, it recently closed so this is the only address I can confidently give you, for now.)

As for coffee

two names come to mind: Saint Pearl, with its clean aesthetic and refined brews, and Noir Coffee for the taste. Both are perfect for a quality latte (because I do not like coffee otherwise sorry) or a quiet work session with just the right buzz.

Now we’re talking: cocktails. This is where I get genuinely excited, because I’ve tested quite a few and I’m not here to waste your time with mediocre mojitos. Let’s start with the high-end spots and work our way down to the more affordable options:

Let’s start with something exceptional: La Diva des Près. Yes, it’s on the pricier side (expect around 20 euros per cocktail), but believe me, it’s worth every centime. The cocktails here are not just drinks, they’re experiences ! They are pretty creative (like with smoke and everything)

For a cocktail with a breathtaking view, head to Bonnie. It’s high-end, always busy, and you absolutely need to book in advance. But once you’re there, with a cocktail in hand and Paris glittering below you, you’ll understand why it’s worth the effort. I’ve yet to find a rooftop with a more stunning perspective of the city. That said, Too Bar also offers a spectacular skyline experience with a chic atmosphere and equally panoramic appeal and the best time to go is of course for the sunsets (be aware that sometimes they will act entitled and the waiter are not always the nicest, unfortunately).

Now, for something a little more casual and wallet-friendly: Everest Bar and La Perla in Châtelet are both solid choices. La Perla is lively, unpretentious, and bonus : it serves excellent pizzas alongside its cocktails, which makes it an easy favorite for a laid-back evening.

And finally, my personal wildcard and perhaps the most surprising recommendation on this list: BAN SHAN in Joinville-le-Pont (RER A). Yes, it’s outside of Paris. But hear me out: this unassuming spot serves my favorite cocktail of all time. Consider it a secret worth crossing the périphérique for!!


Paris, Book by Book

Of course, no list of Parisian bookshops would be complete without mentioning the iconic Shakespeare and Company. It is a classic, but that’s the reason it is often packed, tho stepping inside still feels like entering a storybook.

That said, if you’re looking for something equally excellent and a bit less crowded, I highly recommend Smith & Son and Galignani, both located on Rue de Rivoli. These English-language bookshops have a VERY complete selection.

Now, if you're someone who shops second hand and the thrill of finding a hidden gem, head over to Gibert Joseph near Saint-Michel. It’s a labyrinth of stories spread across four entire floors, with both new and second-hand books at more affordable prices. You’ll find everything from classic literature to obscure essays, glossy magazines to student textbooks (thank you for helping me survive both my bachelor’s and master’s degrees for less the price I had thought). I always walk in for “just a look” and walk out an hour later with three unexpected treasures and a slightly heavier bag (true story - every time).